In May 1998, Francys Arsentiev, a 40-year-old American climber, made history as the first American woman to summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. But what began as a record-breaking triumph quickly spiraled into one of the mountain’s most haunting tragedies. Francys and her husband, Sergei Arsentiev, reached the top together, but the descent became deadly. Exhausted, frostbitten, and starved of oxygen, Francys collapsed high in the “death zone”—over 8,000 meters above sea level. Serg

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